Highsnobiety is on the ground at the world’s fashion capitals, bringing you up-to-date reporting on the latest shows and events from the SS17 fashion weeks.
To save you the hassle of checking countless different collection reports, we’re bringing you all the most important happenings in one easy-to-digest daily roundup.
Here’s everything you need to know from Day 3 of Paris Fashion Week SS17. Check out yesterday’s action here.
After a couple of culturally dicey seasons, Junya Watanabe returned to neutral ground with his latest collection. Seemingly inspired by Russian gang tattoos, his models were tatted-up with both faux and real works of body art. The collection itself would no doubt please many a buyer – patterned camp shirts were everywhere, as was leather in varying forms.
Contrast leather sleeves is a design trick that’s become more than a bit overdone in recent years — the NBA was particularly enamoured with it around 2013. While we’re fans of Junya’s leather sleeves in the context of this collection, they might not look so great when Dwayne Wade’s stylist gets their hands on it.
Elsewhere there was casual suiting – think double-breasted numbers, suitable for smart summer functions – denim jackets with patterned sleeves, and a host of other easy-to-sell garments. And, thankfully, he avoided making everyone feel like they’re taking part in a terrible social experiment this season.
While last season’s Margiela show gloriously collided fine menswear with motorcross gear, for SS17 the house stayed on the straight and narrow with a collection grounded in tailoring traditions.
Coats were criss-crossed with tailor’s chalk and flipped inside out, while shirts appeared to fall apart at the seams and topsy-turvy knits were precariously patchworked together. All pretty standard-issue Margiela-isms, but the house, like so many on the Paris schedule, is a slick, well-oiled machine — one that always succeeds in marrying mind-bending aesthetics with commerce-friendly sensibilities.
Korean designer Juun.J set out to reinterpret military gear for SS17 — specifically the “g suits” used by astronauts and fighter pilots. The designer’s vast, balooning hoodies with netted sleeves looked like they’d cause mayhem on the street style circuit, while cargo pants were cut similarly enormous.
Asian brands’ shaky grasp of the English language can render some pretty amusing results — some of Juun.J’s pieces sported the not-exactly-sensical slogan “Covered In Mood.” Humorous translation issues aside, this was a show of strength from the designer — hardly surprising when you remember just how much dope fashion Seoul is churning out these days.
Juun.J’s proportion play was most powerful on a series of hard-as-nails MA-1 bombers, which, much like his hoodies, had rugged netting trailing from their sleeves. All those flailing ropes looked incredible when the models were marching down the catwalk.
There were some similarly oversized jeans and suits, too, but this was all about the mega-butch military vibes. Solid.
Japanese label Christian Dada unleashed an army of visually-charged, near-pornographic statement pieces last season. Things took a bohemian turn for SS17, with a press release citing John and Yoko as inspiration and a patchy collection that never really seemed to pick up momentum. There were some promising looking military jackets and field shirts, with a topcoat humorously spelling out each of its elements (“arm” on the sleeve, etc.). Nothing really essential here, which is a shame as last season’s Dada collection was a glorious mish-mash of street style bangers.
Much like Juun.J’s show, a few less-than-perfect English phrases produced a few smirks. This time it was “Burn This Cloth After You Have Wear It.”
Riccardo Tisci is big on symbolism — his love of icons has created some of Givenchy’s most powerful pieces — and SS17 was no less emblematic for the designer. All-over prints took American dollar bills and blended them with camo, while bankers-favorite pinstriped suits were given military-style utility pockets. A slogan reading “Realize. Real lies” could be seen peeking through all the zips (there were a lot of zips). Not exactly subtle stuff, but that was never Tisci’s calling card anyway.
A few of the house’s looks bore a striking resemblance to the roadman look found on street corners all over Europe. The always-nefarious combo of bucket hat, side bag and speed-dealer shades were given Givenchy’s luxe treatment, and said bucket hat was even made from what looked like leopard-printed cellophane. That streak of drug dealer chic was unfortunately not reflected in the womens’ looks that closed the show — those were all about very sparkly, very expensive dresses.